Each set includes:

4 -  poles each 25 5/8" long (ea. has a steel ferrule attached to it)
1 - extra zinc coated steel ferrule
2 - vinyl pole end caps
10 feet of elastic shockcord
29" leader wire to help insert shockcord
Instructions

Poles can be cut to desired length with a hacksaw.
Available in three diameters: 5/16" (7.9 mm)-ideal for small dome style tents,   3/8" (9.5 mm) - ideal for family dome tents, and 7/16" (11 mm) - ideal for larger family dome tents.    
5/16" set weighs apprx. 7.7 oz. (1.70 oz./49 gm ea pole)    
3/8" set weighs apprx. 12.8 oz. (2.95 oz./85 gm ea pole) 
7/16" set weights apprx 16.4 oz. (3.75 oz./107 gm ea pole)
    (fiberglass poles are at least twice as heavy as Easton aluminum poles above)

STANDARD SHIPPING FEES FOR SHIPPING TO CANADA OR OTHER INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING ADDRESSES DO NOT APPLY FOR THIS ITEM.  DUE TO THE  LENGTH OF PACKAGE THESE POLES CANNOT BE SENT OUT FIRST CLASS MAIL.  PLEASE CALL OR EMAIL FOR   INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING FEES.

NOTE: THE ALUMINUM TENT POLE COMPONENTS LISTED ON THIS PAGE TYPICALLY WILL NOT INTERCHANGE WITH FIBERGLASS POLES.
ALSO NOTE:  FIBERGLASS POLES AND POLE PARTS ARE ONLY AVAILABLE IN SETS, SEPARATE PARTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE TO US).

#4301      3/8" diam. (9.5 mm) pole set-  GRAY

ALUMINUM POLES:

  Easton Aluminum 7075-79 tent tubing.   It is available in 6 different diameters (.340", .344", .355",.433", .625" and .742"- outside diameter). Black anodized.  18" lengths and selective 13" and 26" lengths. Custom make your own tent poles.  Poles can be shortened.  (NOTE: Poles usually require more sections with inserts than sections without inserts-it is best to map it out on paper to determine how many you need of each-see below on how to make a tent pole).  Sections can be shockcorded together using shockcord (our item #2400 1/8" shockcord or when weight is more critical you can use our  #2402 3/32" shockcord).  Endtips (those designed for grommets), regardless of the pole sizes: .340", .344", .355", .433", .625" and .742" fit into 9/32" grommets (also 5/16" grommets-which are known as a #1 grommet).    Endtip #2 and the dome tips are used when poles are to be shockcorded together.  Endtip #1 is used when poles are not shockcorded together. 



HOW TO MAKE A TENT POLE:

There are 2 types of poles:
(1)  Poles with inserts -the insert is a tube (or sleeve) that is welded inside one hollow end of a tent pole section and protrudes appoximately 3".  This insert allows you to stack one section on top of another.

(2)    Poles without inserts-these are hollow poles (sections) with no inserts

Pictured above are both types of  tent pole sections: the two sections on the left are sections with an insert.   The last section on the right  is a section without an insert .   Using the pole without an insert at the end gives you a hollow end on both the rightside and leftside of  the long pole to insert the tied-on endtips. 

To make a pole you will usually need more sections with an insert than those without.   For example if you want to make a pole with 4 sections (this would make a 6 foot long pole), you would need to have 3 sections with an insert and 1 without an insert.  The reason you need the last section to be without an insert:  picture stacking one section with an insert on top of another.  If the last section has an insert   that would not allow you to put an endtip into both ends of the pole.  Therefor if you use a section without an insert for the last one you will have a hollow end on both ends of the pole, this allows you to put an endtip on each end of your pole.

Making poles is very easy:

Step #1  Lay out your poles in the order you want them. (cut them to the right length, if it is neccessary, using a hacksaw or even better a pipe cutter-quite inexpensive at Home Depot or Lowes or Harbor Freight, ect)

Step #2   Knot one of the endtips onto to one free end of the shock cord and push it  into one of the hollow ends of the pole sections.  Thread your shock cord through each pole section.

Step #3   On the other end tie the other endtip onto the shock cord.  The tension will vary but as a rule of thumb do not pull too much tension on the cord-if you do when you break down the poles they will want to instantly spring back into shape and they will be hard to pack away.  Push the second endtip up into the other hollow end of the pole.  If the shock cord is not tight enough remove the end tip and re-tie it a little tighter. As a general rule to determine the amount of shock cord you need:   For 18" poles add the number of all the pole sections you want to shock cord together and divide this by 2.  ie: if you want to shock cord 8 sections together you would need 4 yards of shock cord.  For the 26" poles multiply the number of poles by 26 to get the total of inches.  Divide this number by 36 and this will give you the amount of yards. ie if you have 9 sections together you multiply 9 x 26" = 234"   divided by 36 = 6 1/2 yds

What size:

The poles are available in 7 different sizes: .340", .344", .355", .433", .625" and .742 (all are the outside diameter measurements).   The .340" is just shy of 3/8" (about the diameter of a Bic ink pen).  The .433" is just shy of 1/2"  (similar in size to a Sharpie felt tip pen).  For reference 3/8" is equal to .375" and 1/2" is equal to .5".  The .625" poles are 5/8" diameter, the .742 are just shy of 3/4" diameter.
http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm   (calculator for metric conversions)

How to attach inserts in poles:

If you purchase the pole inserts separately you can use epoxy glue (like Loctite 326,  JB Weld, and though we have not tried it Loctite 242 should do the job) or any glue suitable for metal to insert them into a tube section.

How to bend poles:

The best poles to bend into an arc are the .340" and the .433".  If you have at least 6 of these poles together they will arc very easily.  The easiest way is to put one end of the pole section in the tent grommet or pocket and ease the other end of the pole section over to the opposite tent grommet or pocket.  The center pole will  usually be the only pole that will have a small permanent arc in it but the arc is usually so minimal that it will not stick out when all of the poles are broken down to pack away.  NOTE: it is usually best to try to arrange your poles so that  at the peak of the arc you have the center of a full pole (not an area where two pulls meet together.  It is weaker where the sections meet with each other and could break).
       If you are only using a few poles and you  need to make a very strong arc several customers have told us that if you pack it with play sand before you bend it this will keep it from kinking.

How to shockcord poles together without using endtips-(ie. ring and pin system):

For your ring and pin system the best way to shockcord the poles together is to tie the shockcord onto a small washer that is just slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the tent pole.  When the washer is pushed up into the pole the insert on the first pole will stop it from going past.  You can then feed the shockcord through the rest of the poles making sure to put one pole without an insert in the center or your chain of poles. On the opposite end of the pole sections you again tie another washer onto the  shockcord and let it go up inside the pole (note you will not be able to adjust the cord tension after this is done as the knot and washer will be way up inside the pole).  This method allows you to shockcord all of the poles together and have a hollow end on each end the pole sections to fit into your ring and pin at the bottom.  We have separate insert peices that will fit up into the poles. This will allow you to glue these extra inserts onto the hollow ends of the poles to give you more structural support in the pin. 

DIAGRAM FOR RING AND PIN ASSEMBLY

How to determine how many  poles you need:

If you have the original poles for the tent you can just measure those for length.  If you don't have the original poles you can try the following.
You can try an internet search for the specs for your particular tent.   Many times by "googling" the tent manufacturer their site may list the specs for your tent that will often include the pole specs.  If you can't find this information you may have to try to measure the tent from the point where one end of the pole is inserted to the location where the other end is located.  We have found the following  websites useful in determining the length of poles.
http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm   (calculator for metric conversions)
http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/rad2.cgi?submit=Entry   (calculator to measure length of an arc)

The main things you need to determine are whether the poles are aluminum or fiberglass,  the diameter of the poles and the length of the poles.

FOR VOLUME ORDERS:   IF YOU NEED 100 PIECES OR MORE OF ANY OF THE ALUMINUM TENT POLE PRODUCTS AND CAN WAIT APPROXMATELY 6 WEEKS FOR DELIVERY CONTACT US FOR BETTER PRICING OPTIONS.  (NOTE: IF YOU NEED POLES WITH INSERTS AND POLES WITHOUT INSERTS YOU WILL NEED TO GET 100 PIECES OF EACH IN ORDER TO GET THE DISCOUNTED PRICE).

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CARBON FIBER POLES:
Easton's Carbon FX poles are extremely light, high performance carbon graphite tent pole system.  Carbon FX has similar performance in stiffness, strength and deflection to Easton's .340" poles but with a 25-30% weight savings.  These poles can use all of the components (endtips, inserts and angles) as the .340" alumunim poles.
Note that Carbon tubing reacts differently than aluminum to situations involving abuse and extreme use, such as crushing, prolonged abrasion or incomplete ferrule insertion (which could cause splitting at the tubes' ends), the weight savings attributable to carbon are accompanied with a need for more vigilant care and proper treatment. With proper care, Easton carbon tubes will last as long as Easton's aluminum tubes.

If you need to shorten carbon fiber poles wrap the pole with tape over the area that needs to be cut to keep it from fraying.  Using a hacksaw or a pipe cutter (quite inexpensive at Home Depot or Lowes or Harbor Freight, etc.) trim the pole to the proper length.